I have very little to say these days. It’s probably because there’s very little to talk about. Life goes on, things become normal, and I don’t really have time to devote to my blog. At this point in life, I feel like blogging about your own life has the ability to detach you from it, to a certain extent. Maybe that’s a good thing; if you need some distance or need to think something out, that can be a great form of expression. On the other hand, recently I’ve found no time or need to do that.
My classes keep me very busy. I’m taking a class on the history of Kyoto, a class on Japanese antiquity and its political uses in the modern era (but so far it’s mostly been about Japanese antiquity), and of course, Japanese. Aside from that I truly have no time for anything else. Papers and work have kept me busy.
I suppose I could talk about my last break. Up in Sapporo, at the beginning of February they hold a snow festival, where they have tons of snow and ice sculptures that hundreds of thousands of people, if not over a million, come to Sapporo to see. The group I was traveling with arrived a day before the festival actually started, but we were able to see pretty much everything, since it needed to be up by the next day anyway.
There were a couple of truly massive snow sculptures, one depicting a giant owl, a giant fox and some other buildings which I’m told are famous attractions in and around Sapporo. Another was a huge snow sculpture advertising the Lion King musical, which was being put on in Sapporo sometime soon. There was also another giant snow sculpture that involved dinosaurs, which was pretty awesome.
The first day we were there was spent roaming around and viewing these sculptures, after which we dropped by our hotel and went back out for dinner. Now, in Japan, crab is a big fucking deal. You can’t really find crab in a restaurant unless the restaurant is devoted specifically to crab. You can probably find crab in supermarkets, but for some reason you just don’t really find it anywhere aside from in these restaurants. But how do you know if a restaurant specializes in crab? Well, the giant mechanized crab mounted on the outside of the building is usually a good clue. Not all of them will have these, but about 3 or 4 out of 5 probably do.
The other thing about these restaurants is that they cost the earth, and then some. The way most of the places we scouted out in Sapporo worked was that they have individual plates you can get, or you can get a course, with a flat rate for each person in your party. The cheaper prices for these course meals were about 5000 yen per person, so roughly 65 dollars or so.
We decided to go to one of these restaurants because one of our party members liked seafood but could not eat meat, and wanted to treat herself, a sentiment shared by others in our group, so we looked at some of the menus of these restaurants, trying to figure out which one to go to. It looked to me like one place had a deal where you pay about 10000 yen (120 dollars or so, rough estimate) and you get about 9 different courses of food, one of which included an entire crab. I figure that 9 courses and a whole crab is probably enough for 5 people, yes? So we decided on that particular restaurant.
These restaurants are absolutely ridiculous. The one we went into had about 5 stories to it, each one with a different, very high class decor. We were seated on the second floor, I believe, and we browsed the menu a little bit more to make sure we knew what we were getting. We called over the waitress and said what we wanted, to which she responded, “so, 5 people, yes?” which was when we realized that the 9 course meal was for one person. We quickly backtracked and asked for more time to figure out what the hell we were going to eat which wouldn’t leave us dead broke by the end of the night. We picked out individual plates (which still cost way too much money), thinking that if it wasn’t enough food, we could just grab something at a convenience store on the way back to the hotel, which we did, because what we got wasn’t enough. Honestly, it wasn’t that spectacular either, in terms of the food itself. Then again maybe that was just my dish.
Anyway, the experience was amusing, to say the least, and we returned to our hotel to quickly pass out, since all of us had gotten up around 5:30 that morning. Ah yes, let us quickly backtrack to the beginning of this journey. We got to Sapporo by airplane from Kansai International Airport on a 9:30 flight, which took about two hours, but getting to Kansai was a bit of a problem. Kansai is about 50 km south from Osaka or so, which is about how far south Osaka is from Kyoto. Since getting from Kyoto to Osaka takes about an hour, I figured it would take about two to two and a half hours or so to get down to Kansai International.
I walked out of my apartment around 6:10 in the morning or so, and caught the train I needed in order to get a limited express down to Osaka on the Keihan, the train company I usually take to get up to Doshisha. I got on the limited express and started worrying about whether I would be able to get to Kansai in time. I had seen on the internet that I could catch a train down to Kansai from a subway stop in Osaka, so I had planned to make my way to that stop then switch to the train. I got off the Keihan around 7:20 or so and switched over to the subway to make my way to the subway stop I wanted, but did not see any transfer indicators about the train line going down to Kansai at that particular stop. I freaked out a little and found a sign saying that to get to Kansai I had to go to a different subway stop, which wasn’t too far away.
I bought a ticket that would take me all the way to Kansai, and I made my way to the new subway stop I needed to get to. I got there around 7:55 or so, and frantically followed the markers to get to the line going down to Kansai. Why so freaked out? Well, I had no way of knowing how long the train ride was, when the next train was leaving, etc., so naturally I was going as quickly as possible. I got to the platforms for the Nankai line, the line I needed to take, at around 8, and discovered that an express to the airport left in 10 minutes. I got on it and hoped it wouldn’t take longer than 40 minutes or so.
I sat on the train as 20 minutes went by, then 30, then 40, exchanging texts with my friends saying I would be there pretty soon. I finally got to Kansai around 9 and speed walked to the terminals, getting there at about 9:02. My friends saw me and told me to check my bag, because they stopped checking baggage in about 3 minutes. I checked my bag successfully and we got on the plane.
Lucky, huh?
Now we get to our second day in Sapporo, which was mostly us looking at more snow sculptures and getting food, getting caught in a snowstorm and finally making our way around 5 to a bus stop which would take us to our next destination: Niseko. Niseko is famous in Japan for having some of the best snow on which to ski, and that is precisely why we were going there.
Prior to this trip, I have skied once in my life. I barely remember the experience, aside from that I sucked and I didn’t like it. I’m almost positive that I only went that one time, and I retained a grand total of nothing from the one or two days that I did it as a child. So I more or less went into this trip with no experience.
The bus up there took longer than expected, because it was snowing almost the entire time, and here’s something very important about Hokkaido (the northernmost island of Japan): it’s cold, and there is a lot of snow. More snow than I have ever seen in my life. And it’s awesome. On the way up to Niseko we passed by a couple of smaller ski slopes, until we finally passed a sign telling us we were heading into Niseko. We got off the bus at a welcome center right next to a couple ski lifts, some of which were still running at 8:15. Night skiing. Huh.
Our hotel was actually rather cheap considering it was in a ski resort town, at about 60 dollars a night, but it left some things to be desired. Really the only issue I had with it was that the showers were…kinda gross, but that was actually a non-issue, for reasons that will be explained later.
The first night consisted of us eating at the hotel’s restaurant, which was good but a bit pricey, after which we decided that we would be cooking our own food for the rest of the trip to save money. We went to sleep on the early side since we needed to get up first thing in the morning to rent our gear.
Cut to the next morning. We were all up by about 8 or so to rent our stuff so we could start skiing. It took us about an hour to get everything rented, and 150 dollars later, we had our gear for the next 3 days (I love my winter jacket, because it’s a great ski jacket). Two of the more experienced skiers in our group went on ahead, while the rest of us, three in total, finished getting our stuff together and getting changed and etc.
Two of our group of three, me and a friend of mine, were beginners, and the other, our mutual friend, had been skiing since childhood, so she had agreed to help us get our legs underneath us. We hiked up the main street in our ski boots to the lifts, which was much more of a workout than it sounds; ski boots hurt when you’re not actually skiing, we got our lift tickets, and started to learn how to ski.
We put on our skis so we could start getting used to them, and so we could try to learn how to walk/slide around in them. After a minute or so of that, we started to head to a trail map so we could figure out a good place to start. We eventually realized that to get to the easiest trail on the mountain, we had to go down a hill, and what appeared to be a rather steep one, at that.
I was absolutely terrified by the fact that it was so easy to slide over the snow in my skis, and the fact that there was what, in my mind, appeared to be a gigantic hill I had to go down to start out with. Now, realistically the hill was 50 meters high, with a 20 degree incline, maybe a little more. Basically, it’s not really that bad; I’d say that the incline is about standard for beginners, and compared to real slopes, the distance is tiny. But, again, this was my first time, and I did not know how to turn…or brake, and I barely knew how to stay upright.
But I’d be damned if I was gonna walk down that hill.
I headed down the hill first while my other friend who had never skied before was more or less having a panic attack about the hill and my more experienced friend was helping her calm down. Considering that I wiped out 2/3 of the way down the hill as opposed to 1/3 of the way down, I did pretty well for my first time. I think my skis had snapped off (skis have some kind of a pressure release threshold, so if too much pressure is put on the thing holding your foot in place, it will naturally snap open so the ski doesn’t get damaged), so gathered them up and waited while my two friends edged their way down the hill. they met up with me and we very slowly made our way to the slope, which was very mild, and started learning from the beginning.
It mostly consisted of us skiing across the slope on what barely constituted an incline so we could get the feel for skiing, falling a lot of the time. I started speeding up my progress a bit and I realized that my two friends were a bit behind me, since my fellow newbie was taking it very slowly due to her paralyzing fear. I decided I did not want to wait for them, so I called them on my phone and told them I was going ahead and would meet up with them on my way down the slope.
I sailed down to the bottom, probably crashing a few more times, and got to the lift that would take me back up to the top of the slope. I used my lift ticket and got on, and was shortly very fearful again. I could barely ski, I still didn’t really know how to turn, I barely knew how to brake, and I was about to get dropped off somewhere where I might have to start skiing immediately, or there might be a huge hill, and what if I etc etc. I got to the top of the lift and was glad that I didn’t have to immediately start my way back down, but I stood at the top of the lift for a few minutes, looking down at the enormous hill I had to ski down. Oh it wouldn’t have been so bad; I could have skied down and to the left and just sailed to a stop back at the top of the hill I had gone down at first, but I had to go the right, which looked so steep I could only barely see over the ridge.
I started skiing down again, fighting against my fears, and fell down a few more times before I finally learned how to steer a bit, and brake a bit. I kept going down the slope, braking or falling to prevent myself from going too fast, until I caught up with my two friends, who hadn’t yet made it down to the bottom for the first time. My friend was still quite terrified, and I went on ahead to the bottom, falling a couple more times, and waited for my friends there. When they made it down to the bottom, we got on the lift, went back up, and somehow made it to the top of the first hill we ever went down. We stopped there for lunch.
After lunch, my two more experienced friends went off together to the more difficult slopes, and my other newbie friend took the afternoon off. That left me and my other friend to go skiing on our own. So what did we do on the afternoon of my first day of skiing? We went up a quad lift (so named because it carries four people) to the top of a particularly long beginner run down the mountain. It didn’t go from the top of the mountain, more like 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up it. Even so, it was a long way up, and I was terrified. I had been skiing for what, 2 or three hours total? I kind of knew how to brake, kind of knew how to turn, and I was gonna go down the mountain? Well, apparently.
We got to the top of the quad lift and made our way over to where the beginner run started. Now what we went down wasn’t one long beginner run, it was more like a collection of two or three that were strung together at intersections of routes. The route started out with the steepest slope I had seen yet, a 25 degree incline or so, then leveled out on a small plateau, where you could get on a lift, or go down an intermediate run on the right or a beginner run on the left. From the plateau, came another slope, which wasn’t quite as steep, but dropped off sharply to the left, i.e. expert run, i.e. it looked more or less like a cliff, i.e. terrifying, which met up with the intermediate path and continued down to another drop off to the left, another expert run. To the right of this second expert run came another steep slope which spread out a bit as it met up with the intermediate run again, this time with an expert run to the left, again, and the beginner run continuing to the right. However, at this particular fork in the runs was the steepest slope yet, probably a 35 degree slope, maybe a bit less. After that the run narrowed a bit and alternated between steeper and shallower inclines before reaching another fork. Going straight would put you on a huge hill with an incline of 35 degrees or so all the way to the bottom, while going right would put you on a catwalk, which led to the beginner path to the bottom and to the quad lift which we originally boarded.
All in all, that trail is about 2 km or more to the bottom, which isn’t much when you’re zooming down the mountain on skis; it can take about 10 minutes if you don’t really stop, probably less depending on how easily you want to break your neck. It took us an hour and a half to get down that slope for two reasons: 1) I was, rightfully, scared a couple of times, and apprehensive the rest of the time. 2) I feel down over a dozen times, maybe over two dozen times. I think now is a good time to explain something: falling down when you’re skiing is naturally frustrating, but it can also be a lot of fun. Falling down when you’re skiing can lead to discomfort, wet underclothes, and wondering how you didn’t just twist your ankle (I wondered that at least once), but it rarely hurts, because you’re falling onto snow, which is wonderfully soft. Believe, I fell more times than I cared to count that first day, and I was absolutely fine at the end of it. Oh, sure, I was sore, but it was fun, until it got frustrating. Anyway, falling is not that big a deal.
After we finished that run, I can’t remember what happened. I either went down the run we had been on in the morning, or we both went back to the hotel. Either way, I was exhausted and ridiculously sweaty (I was wearing a good six layers or so, so I was not in the least bit cold) by the end of the day. We crashed in the girls’ room (our party consisted of two boys and three girls, and we had two rooms) for a little bit, until the other guy in the party went down to the kitchen in the hotel to start making dinner (for dinner we went shopping in convenience stores for basic supplies and made dinner from those things we bought; significantly cheaper than eating out). About an hour later we were eating spaghetti with a light sauce with tuna and some peppers. Not great, but honestly, we could have done worse, and it was way cheaper than anything else we were gonna find.
After dinner we walked up to one of the onsen in the area, lounged for a good hour or so, went back to the hotel, played cards for a bit, and passed out early.
The next day we split off into similar groups as before; my more experienced friend stuck with my other newbie friend, the other two experts went off on their own, and I stuck on the same slope as former and did my own thing. The previous day, the steeper slopes had taught me that inverting your skis does not slow you down enough, and my friend had been telling me to make sharper turns in order to maintain a slower pace. I had not been able to really get the hang of it, so that’s what I practiced that morning on my own.
After lunch, I was with my other newbie friend, helping her along while the friend who had been helping her went off to do some more exciting skiing, for which I can’t blame her. I helped out my friend for a run or two, then she said she was gonna call it a day. At this point I was a bit conflicted as to what to do: my friend had left, so I was on my own. I did not know if I was ready to do the run I had done yesterday solo, but the beginner run I had been doing all morning was already too easy. I mustered my courage and got on the quad lift to do it again, on my own.
I’d like to change subjects for a moment and talk about Australians. On the quad lift that second day, I talked to two different Australians who had come up to Niseko to go skiing. This is just a side-effect of the fact that there were more foreigners in Niseko than there were Japanese people. The funny thing about Niseko is that it literally did not feel like I was in Japan, because almost everyone there spoke English. There were a couple times when I used my Japanese, but almost every skier there was Australian or from a European country and able to speak English. It was the strangest thing, but rather nice.
After talking to the Australian on my way up, we were deposited on the mountain, and I began to make my way down. I did fall a few times, but nowhere near as many times as I had the day before, and my skis didn’t snap off once. The reason for my improvement was that I had learned how to make sharper turns that morning, and sharper turns do wonders for slowing yow down. I was so proud of myself and was having so much fun that I went up the quad lift two more times that day. All in all I fell down a few times and my skis snapped off once or twice, but I had a tremendous amount of fun, and was extremely proud of myself. I had run into one of my friends on the mountain, and he watched me ski and gave me some tips for how to improve.
After my third run down, I went back to the hotel the relax for a bit before dinner. On that day, one of my other friends, one of the two who had gone off by themselves, had switched her ski boots because her first ones had been hurting too much, and she had sacrificed the afternoon to switch her boots, so she wanted to go night skiing, to make up for the lost afternoon. No one else really wanted to go with her, so what was I to do?
I went with her.
We hiked up the hill for the second time that day and got on the quad lift to make our way up. We got off and started skiing down, only to stop after the first hill to get on another lift that took us as far up as the lifts went, i.e. close to the top of the mountain, i.e. intermediate runs. we got off the lift and I looked out on what must have been a 40 degree incline…which I subsequently skied down.
Night skiing may sound dangerous, but it’s actually about as safe/dangerous as regular skiing. Huge floodlights are positioned on the mountain so that you can see where you’re going, and while some areas of the slope aren’t as well lit up as others, you’re not really in danger of falling off a cliff or anything.
I fell a few times, and I’m pretty sure I broke my thumb because it still hurts a little bit, and it’s been about two and a half weeks since it happened, but it didn’t hurt so much that I couldn’t keep skiing, because I did precisely that. I had to stop frequently because skiing is quite taxing on your legs, and I had been skiing all day by that point, and my friend went on ahead of me. I made my way down the mountain, stopping only when I thought my legs were about to give out on me, and after the initial intermediate course, got back on to the beginner course I had done in the afternoon. The only change I made was going down the intermediate run that led back to the quad lift. At that point it was about 8:30, when the lifts closed, so I went back to the hotel.
My friend later apologized for going on ahead, but I didn’t really mind. Once she had gotten back, we all went to the onsen quickly, then passed out once we got back to the hotel from exhaustion. That night before going to bed, I could think about nothing but skiing, and found myself moving the muscles in my legs ever so slightly along with the path I was imagining in my head. I consciously stopped myself from doing that at least three times before I finally passed out…to dreams of skiing.
The next day, the third day, was the least full day we had in Niseko, and I was determined to make the most of it. I agreed to help my newbie friend along in the morning so my other friend could go have fun, and I did my best to help my friend along. She had progressed a great deal, truth be told; she could more or less turn, she knew how to brake by inverting her skis, but she was just too terrified to have fun. I helped her work on things I thought she needed to work on, and we went on several runs before our friend came to check on how we were doing. We continued for a while until my friend decided to call it a day, and I had some more time to myself before lunch. I went up the quad lift again and went down the beginner’s run a time or two, without falling once, before breaking for lunch.
When all of us were eating lunch, we decided to go up on the mountain and take a picture of all of us to commemorate our time there. My newbie friend was averse to this idea since she did not want to ski down the mountain, but we assured her that there was a gondola that she could ride down so she didn’t have to ski. the two experienced skiers went up ahead of us, and the three of us went on the quad lift to meet the other two at the gondola entrance.
This required going down the first hill off the quad lift, which if you’ll remember, was terrifying the first time I saw it. Also, the weather that third day was worse than it had been the previous two days, and it was hella windy up on the mountain. My friend was terrified. We tried to help her down, but she was too scared to go down on her own, so my experience friend let her latch on, and the two of them skied down the hill together. I followed for a little, then raced on ahead to the gondola entrance. We waited for a while until we were joined by our other friends, and we got together and took a group picture. By this time a mild snowstorm had encompassed that part of the mountain, so after taking the picture, my newbie friend went down the mountain on the gondola, and the four of us went to a different part of the mountain that I had not yet been to.
We started out on an intermediate slope, which I made it down slowly, but without falling, then we met up again at a crossroads. My two experienced friends went on an intermediate run, while me and my other friend went on a beginner run that was terribly boring most of the time, except for two rather steep slopes.
The four of us met at the bottom of the the mountain, and went up a lift. We were going to go up another lift and take an intermediate run back down, but the weather had continued to get worse, and we were forced to make our way back over to the main part of the mountain. To do so we had to go down a beginner run, which was thoroughly boring, and take the gondola back up the mountain. After taking the gondola, we started to ski down…in a snowstorm. I think everyone has a different idea of what a snowstorm is like, so let me clarify: it was windy, with lots of snow coming down, and my visibility was about 100-150 meters around me. It was still not the safest situation, and I had my friend stay close to me just in case something happened, but we made it down the mountain fine. We were so fine, that we went up and did it again, although by the time we were halfway down our second run the snowstorm had more or less blown over.
That was the last of our skiing in Niseko. That night we hung out with a Finnish guy we had met in the hotel, lounged in the onsen, talked with some Japanese guys, and went to sleep contented (I had a repeat of last night with involuntary muscle movements and dreams of skiing). The next day we awoke, ate a bit, and got ready to leave Niseko.
So, to recap, in three days I:
1) Learned how to ski
2) Went night skiing down intermediate level runs
3) Skied down the mountain in a snowstorm
I felt awesome. Still do.